Itabashi Hanabi Taikai

Sumida River Fireworks Festival sucks! Yes, the most famous summer fireworks festival in Japan, officially known as Sumidagawa Hanabi Taikai, is crap. There are three key reasons why:

 

(1) You have to camp out for weeks in the hope of seeing anything. All the best places fill up as the event gets closer. You won’t find anywhere comfortable to stand, let alone sit, no matter how early you show up on the day. My memory of the festival was of standing behind a wire fence on a small patch of grass slightly smaller than the area covered by the soles of my feet.

(2) The ‘boom factor’ is a lie. The fireworks go off in two different places, meaning the number is effectively halved. That makes the number you can actually see around the same as less well-attended displays. There are, however, a few choice spots where you can see both locations. For that, you’ll need to camp out for weeks.

(3) Crowds. Once the display is over, everyone heads to Asakusa Station. That’s 948,000 people all heading in the same direction. Eating is also a big part of festivals, so the usually scenic Asakusa streets are lined with trash.

 

Thankfully, there are better firework displays, like Itabashi Hanabi Taikai (いたばし花火大会). My friends arrived in the early afternoon and spread out their blue sheet. We drank and ate red velvet cake while dragonflies danced around us until it got dark.

Another great festival is The 43rd Katsushika Nouryou Hanabi Taikai (第43回葛飾納涼花火大会). All day and into the evening, giant red dragonflies float above the grass, making it look like a section of one of those digital art posters you had in college where all the dolphins are flying into space on rainbows.

 

Itabashi Hanabi Taikai

 

What you need:

A blue plastic sheet. Hell yeah it has to be blue! Don’t look at me, I don’t make the rules. This is used not so much as a place to sit, but more of a way to mark your territory.
Plastic bags. To put your rubbish in. You’ll need more than one.
Beer. Don’t buy it from the convenience store near the display since they’ll be full of people doing the exact same thing. If it has to be ice-cold, you can buy it from a vendor (limited selection), but you’ll still want more than one over the course of the display. Buy those in advance.
Wet wipes. Eating buttered jacket potatoes with chopsticks is tough. Most festival food is fairly greasy too.
No food. Never bring food. There are plenty of food stalls selling food and even standard fare like corn-on-the-cob and jacket potatoes have a Japanese twist to them. You’ll have to queue for these too, but it’s worth it.

 

There are a number of summer firework festivals and almost all of these are better than Sumidagawa. For a fairly comprehensive free listing, pick up Lawson’s Ticket magazine from Lawson’s convenience store. However, even if you aren’t in Tokyo (or, perhaps, especially if you’re not in Tokyo), there should be plenty of local firework displays around you. Have fun!

This was a response to a call for submissions to the June 2010 Japan Blog Matsuri on “Hot Fun In the Summertime!” Thank you to Locohama for hosting.

A florist shop dating from 1927.

For every entry in the JSOC Blog Matsuri on the topic of secret Japan, there will be someone to claim that they’ve known about whatever is being discussed for years. Of course they they’ve always known about the udon shop inside the crater of Mt Fuji that’s guarded by a six-headed tanuki. Which is simply not true — ask any Japanese person where the six-headed tanuki can be found and they’ll refuse to answer, backing away slowly. That’s how secret it is.

So what qualifies Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen (Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum) to be described as a part of ‘secret Japan’? Well, it’s considered far enough away from the train stations surrounding it, all of which are outside the sacred Yamanote ring of Tokyo, that even the official website suggests you catch a bus. And let’s face it, a guidebook that covers Harajuku, Roppongi and Koganei isn’t going to happen anytime soon.

Inside the park, you’ll find historic buildings that have been deconstructed and rebuilt in order to preserve them. These range from a traditional farm house from the end of the Edo Era (1603 – 1868) to modern residences from the 1940s. Honestly, nothing prepares you for the feeling of being a thousand miles from “home” (or something like it) and realizing your grandmother used that kind of washing machine.

My favourite area is the street from very early in the Showa Era (1926 – 1989), with a florist, a soy sauce merchant, a bar and many other shops. The stationers is lined with calligraphy brushes and the florists is decorated in modern white tiles and filled with plastic flowers. All the shop interiors have been recreated and it’s a great opportunity to take a few photographs. At the end nearest to the entrance there’s a stand selling 2010-style takoyaki and icecream, so you can sit outdoors and take in the view for a while. You can also go into an udon restaurant which sells real udon for 600 yen. No tanuki, six-headed or otherwise, need be harmed.

 

Detail from a wooden panel in one of the houses.
Fire watchtower which original stood in Ueno. But wait! There's nature too! These are peach blossoms.

 

The details:

Entry won’t cost more than 400 yen and there are discounts if you’re over 65 or studying at university.

April to September, open from 9.30am to 5.30pm.
October to March, open from 9.30am to 4.30pm
The park is closed on Mondays and over the New Year holidays.

To get there, go to Musashi Koganei, Higashi Koganei or Hana Koganei and then catch a bus (although I recommend you walk – it’s only about 1.1 km from Hana Koganei).

MAP

Rules: Photography is forbidden in the indoor museum, the Mitsui Hachirouemon storehouse and in the Mitsui family chapel on the second floor. You can’t sketch or use tripods inside buildings or where you might cause a disturbance.

Fox dancer

 

Mazikeen’s topic for the JSOC blog carnival was “youkai“. Let me show you my favourite haiku; I’ll tell you what makes it special and its connection with the realm of magic.

 

公達に 狐ばけたり 宵の春
kindachi ni   kitsune baketari   yoi no haru
The fox   Changes himself into a young prince;   The spring evening.
(Buson, translated by R.H. Blyth.)

 

THE HAIKU

 

In just a few words, this haiku describes a hazy, twilight world where fox spirits play and have adventures.

What makes a haiku special is the use of kigo, which is a word or phrase that evokes a particular season. It’s sometimes so culturally-specific as to be imperceptible to Western readers, such as the sound of a crackling fire (without direct reference to the fire itself!) to indicate winter. Other times, like in this fox haiku, Buson just comes right out and says it.

Due to the fact that Japanese doesn’t specify whether something is plural or not, we don’t know how many foxes are out there transforming into noblemen. It might be a single fox, a group of foxes or every fox ever. Folklore is clear on the matter though — it’s every fox ever.

My personal favourite translator of haiku is R. H. Blyth (1898 – 1964) and he only got away with it by translating as best he could and then writing an explanatory paragraph. In the case of that well-known haiku about the frog and the old pond, he did two translations years apart and wrote an essay about it just to make sure he got everything.

Overall, the features of Japanese and the kigo combine to give not just a sense of timelessness, but of a specific moment in the cycle of seasons. For what it’s worth, this haiku dates to 1777. You’re (probably) not thinking of the same hazy spring nights in rural Japan as Buson, but the poem taps into the same dream-like feeling.

(Also? You can forget about the whole 5-7-5 syllable thingy in English. Japanese ‘syllables’ are counted in terms of how many kana are needed, so it’s only loosely connected to the Western concept.)

 

THE FOX

 

Foxes are sneaky — we’ve always known this, regardless of nationality. In a fable attributed to Aesop, you can find a fox who tricks crows out of cheese. In Japan, they can shoot fire from their tails (yes, plural), possess women, transform into humans, become invisible at will and fly. Everything you claimed in your last job interview, in fact.

Choosing a particular story about fox spirits is difficult, because there are a lot of general descriptions and few specifics. However, in terms of iconic value, nothing beats Lafcadio Hearn:

“The invisible fox, as already stated, attaches himself to persons. Like a Japanese servant, he belongs to the household. But if a daughter of that household marry, the fox not only goes to that new family, following the bride, but also colonises his kind in all those families related by marriage or kinship with the husband’s family. Now every fox is supposed to have a family of seventy-five—neither more, nor less than seventy-five—and all these must be fed. So that although such foxes, like ghosts, eat very little individually, it is expensive to have foxes. The fox-possessors (kitsune-mochi) must feed their foxes at regular hours; and the foxes always eat first—all the seventy-live. As soon as the family rice is cooked in the kama (a great iron cooking-pot), the kitsune-mochi taps loudly on the side of the vessel, and uncovers it. Then the foxes rise up through the floor. And although their eating is soundless to human ear and invisible to human eye, the rice slowly diminishes. Wherefore it is fearful for a poor man to have foxes.”

Frankly, I love the way Hearn describes these events in such a matter-of-fact manner. He dares you not to accept that these invisible foxes are just as real as ghosts and then goes into a lecture on the immorality of keeping fox spirits in one’s household. This is a wonderful chapter (albeit with a few problematic sentences due to its age).

Foxes are also popular characters at festivals. In the photograph at the top, you can see a fox dancer at the Kawagoe Festival. They tend to be my favourite dancers — androgynous and graceful, unlike the comedic tanuki.

 

THE FOX AND THE HAIKU

 

The legend behind the foxes in the haiku is so powerful that you can’t ignore its effect in the haiku. The haiku format works to provide a beautiful, timeless experience in a very short space of time.

What do you think of the haiku I chose? Are there other (magical or youkai-themed) ones you like better? Let me know in the comments.

 

Links out:

Chapter from Lafcadio Hearn’s Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan that deals with kitsune

Wikipedia on kitsune

Foxes on a Trampoline (I mean, really, I just figured this would be your kind of thing…)

A number of anime and manga have been adapted into musicals with little attention from Western anime fans. The adaptations made are likely inspire confusion… Why would you turn Naruto into a magic show? Why would you remove all female characters from a manga dedicated to fanservice? Why is Hard Gay a samurai?

Nevertheless, this is my list of my ten favourite anime musicals and stage shows that I’ve enjoyed over the years. The vast majority are available on DVD and, while difficult to buy in some cases, can definitely be acquired by anyone familiar with online auctions or with access to a shopping service.

 

Ninja Illusion Naruto (Musical)

10

English Title: Ninja Illusion Naruto

Japanese Title: 忍者イリュージョン NINJA ILLUSION NARUTO-ナルト-

Date: May 2006

I’ve never deliberately sat down and watched Naruto, so my grasp of the plot may be a little shaky. However, I think it’s something to do with a boy in an orange jumpsuit who’s trying to become a ninja. Along the way, he fights people and makes friends. Sound about right?

The anime is aimed at a younger audience and is aired in the early evening when elementary school kids are returning home. Due to this, the production organisers of this musical tried to capture the kid market by using cheap magic tricks while aiming at the usual female theatre-going demographic by casting members of Johnny’s Musical Academy.

What could possibly go wrong?

The plot focuses on a princess who can bring things to life by singing. A handful of villains dressed as disco vampires set out to capture her and Naruto saves her. Other characters make cameo appearances, including Gaara. His sand powers were simulated by covering the entire stage in gold fabric. There was the inevitable sexy no jutsu.

I must admit that if I were younger (by about twenty years!), I would’ve loved this.

 

9

English Title: Shounen Onmyouji (Utaemaki) -Kono Shounen, Seimei no Koukei ni tsuki-

Japanese Title: 少年陰陽師 <歌絵巻> ―この少年、晴明の後継につき―

Date: October 2007

One of the most difficult things to decide when designing a musical based on an anime is how to deal with the cute mascot characters. In the case of Shonen Onmyouji, the story of the grandson of a famous magician Abe no Seimei, his pet fox-rabbit-cat hybrid could have been a real problem. However, the woman playing him had a lot of energy and a strong singing voice.

The songs were catchy and best described as combining Shinto-style chants and disco music. Awesome.

 

Neoromance Stage Harukanaru Toki no Naka de Maihitoyo

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English Title: Neoromance Stage Harukanaru Toki no Naka de Maihitoyo

Japanese Title: ネオロマンス・ステージ 遙かなる時空の中で 舞一夜

Date: January 2008 – February 2008

Harukanaru Toki no Naka de was originally a series of one-woman-many-guys dating sims in which yet another Japanese schoolgirl finds herself in Heian era Japan (or something like it) surrounded by hot monks and samurai. The stage version was a retread of the anime film of the same name.

It opens with two characters fighting demons. The rest of the team soon joins them and they all strike dramatic poses, a screen unrolls in a split second and they stand in front of the projected logo. There was then a short sequence that looked like the credits from a TV drama series.

While walking in the rain, the female lead (Akane) falls in love with an amnesiac man who loves to do Noh dances. In the same town, a Noh stage keeps burning down, presumably due to the presence of a restless spirit. The two couldn’t possibly be connected… Their love progresses and the mysterious man gives Akane a mask. It turns out that it’s cursed and whoever performs a dance while wearing it will die. Suefumi, the man who Akane met, was once a famous dancer and performed that dance ten years ago. He was struck down, not by the cursed mask, but by a curse from within his own family.

The main characters play Heian era instruments while Suefumi dances his last dance and Akane frees his soul.

 

7

English Title: Butai [Shinsengumi Imon Peace Maker]

Japanese Title: 舞台『 – 新撰組異聞 – PEACE MAKER』

Date: May 2009

Shinsengumi Imon Peace Maker and Peace Maker Kurogane are works of historical fiction about a boy who joins the shinsengumi. Many of the characters mentioned have real world counterparts. For example, Harada Sanosuke was a real samurai who tried to commit seppuku to prove to someone that he knew how it was done. He failed. In this play, Harada is played by Hard Gay. You heard me.

You can watch a commercial on YouTube for the DVD which highlights the sword fighting and melodrama. However, my enduring memory will be of curtain call, when Hard Gay got the whole audience on their feet to thrust HG-style in time with him. Unforgettable.

 

6

English Title: MUSICAL AIR GEAR

Japanese Title: ミュージカル『エア・ギア』

Date: January 2007 – Ongoing

If you’ve read the manga, the first things you’ll think of are “flashy inline skates” and “boobs,” not necessarily in that order. The production company dealt with the problem of most theatre-goers being women in their twenties by ditching all the girls in the cast and introducing a gay couple called Romeo and Juliet who are members of an evil Shakespeare-themed skating group called Team Bacchus.

The stage consisted of a ramp in the centre and a track that led off it and looped through the audience. Before the show, the backstage crew came out, made some announcements and skated around to check that everything was in place.

The cast included three of the original voice actors from the anime, so you can imagine they aren’t the best at skating. In fact, none of the named characters had been chosen for their skating ability, so lots tended to go wrong. It was part of the fun.

 

5

English Title: Saiyuuki Kagekiden

Japanese Title: 最遊記歌劇伝

Date: September 2008 – April 2009

The manga played off concepts from the original Chinese novel. Four characters travel west (to India) in a jeep that’s actually a small white dragon.

The first Saiyuuki musical is notable for selecting actors on the basis of their looks and not for their ability to sing. The result was great chemistry between the characters, dramatic monologues and songs which had only a brief flirtation with what might be termed “music.” One of the four leads even apologised at curtain call and promised to try harder.

Despite what you might think, I loved the show and even went a second time. There was a strong supporting cast who could sing and the overall style and look was fantastic. Audiences really got behind the cast and the actors responded well to their encouragement. I also figured it would it would die quietly like the Naruto musical, which didn’t even get a DVD release. At my second viewing, which was also the final show, they announced a second musical, so I guess other people found something uplifting in the mess too.

 

4

English Title: Ongaku Butoukai “Kuroshitsuji” – Sono Shitsuji, Yuukou

Japanese Title: 音楽舞闘会「黒執事」-その執事、友好

Date: May 2009 – Ongoing

The original manga is set in creatively anachronistic Victorian England and focuses on a young boy and the demonic butler who will eventually eat his soul. The anime… was a little different.

The plot for the musical deviates from both the manga and anime, but is closer in spirit to the manga. It concerns a group of travellers from Japan and the secrets they hide.

There were songs by fan favourites like Undertaker (accompanied by pet rats) and shinigami Grell. They also found a way to allow Sebastian (the butler) to throw cutlery like daggers, which has since become an iconic scene from the first manga volume.

Another musical is planned with more original characters and focusing on the shinigami. Grell was too fabulous to ignore first time around, it seems.

 

SAMURAI 7 (Stage Production)

3

English Title: SAMURAI 7

Japanese Title: SAMURAI 7

Date: November 2008

Samurai 7 was a sci-fi retelling of Kurosawa Akira’s “Seven Samurai” with giant robots. This was no problem for the high-budget stage version, which used costumes and set design to recreate the anime effortlessly.

The vast majority of the show was choreographed fight scenes interspersed with tragedy and just a little bit of comedy. There was two-handed sword-fighting, devastating death scenes, a melodramatic villain, realistic cyborgs and comedic monologues.

Definitely worth seeing.

 

2

English Title: Rock Musical Bleach

Japanese Title: ロックミュージカル BLEACH

Date: August 2005 – Ongoing

Almost everything I know about Bleach comes from this musical, but it’s not a bad way to enjoy the series. The story revolves around Ichigo, a boy who takes on the power of a shinigami when he tries to rescue her. He also possesses a sword bigger than he is.

Unlike the other long-running fan-favourite, Musical Tennis no Oujisama, Bleach doesn’t really have a large number of cast members moving in and out between plot arcs. This allows for a lot of in-jokes and chemistry between the fairly unchanging cast members. Even the back-up actors/dancers, known as TAIIN, have their own fans and photosets.

The final half hour of each musical is usually devoted to getting the audience on their feet and clapping along with the actors who vary wildly from remaining in-character to breaking kayfabe.

The final song is often “Hallelujah Goodbye,” which has evolved its own set of complicated hand movements and actions that most fans seem to have no problems with. I am a notable exception to this.

 

1

English Title: Musical Tennis no Oujisama

Japanese Title: ミュージカル・テニスの王子様

Date: April 2003 – Ongoing

Almost certainly responsible for the relatively recent boom in anime musicals starring young and attractive guys, this fairly simple musical follows the fortunes of a young boy who plays tennis with his school tennis club as they try to win the national tennis tournament.

The simplicity of the original was charming. The actors played tennis with regular tennis rackets, but with beams from stage lights as balls. Then they’d stop and sing a song incorporating their catchphrases from the manga.

It becomes more complicated when you start talking about “Dream Live,” which a revue staged at regular intervals that mixes sketches and popular songs without any plot. Filmed scenes of guys eating yakiniku and of shark attacks abound. There are extravagant costumes with the various tennis teams as pimps and pirates.

Even in the main series of musicals, there are transformations mid-song, adlibbed monologues to cacti and cascading waterfalls of dry ice. Basically, everything you’d expect from a good filler episode of the anime and a lot of fake tennis.

 
 

This was a response to Muza-chan’s call for JSOC Blog Matsuri entries. Thank you very much for hosting it this month, Muza-chan.

For more posts on anime and otaku interests, click on the tag cloud to your right. Or check out some of my posts on travel or food in Japan instead.

 

 

 

All the entries for the JSOC Blog Matsuri on the subject of unusual things in Japan have been revealed at Gakuranman.com, including my piece on beetles.

 

 

 

 

 

The Blog Matsuri theme this month is about unusual things in Japan. I almost wrote about grapes and the moment I realised I was the only person in the room not peeling them before eating. I suppose you do what you have to when fresh fruit are scarce and a single strawberry can cost 200 yen.

This summer, however, my attentions are elsewhere. Every day for the past two weeks, I’ve checked on the progress of several tanks of kabutomushi beetles at my workplace. I’ve watched these creatures grow from larvae buried in the ground to shiny, black-cased bugs. I like shiny things.

The summertime craze for collecting insects in Japan is single-handedly responsible for anime like Mushiking and Pokemon. Some schools even have special programs which aim to give a kabutomushi to every child. So whenever I mention that my country simply doesn’t have beetles this large to Japanese people, their reaction is often one of surprise. It seems that for many, not having these beetles around is even stranger.

(The photos for this post are below, just in case there are phobic readers.)

Cheer up, I could've titled this post 'Beetlemania'.  Kabutomushi AKA Rhinoceros Beetle