Hina Matsuri Empress

Today is March 3rd, which is Girl’s Day in Japan, also known as Hina Matsuri. Unfortunately, unlike Boy’s Day (Kodomo no Hi), I don’t get a day off work.

In fact, my first clue that it was today was lunch when we were given the traditional ‘chirashi-zushi’. The ’sushi’ (zushi) part means Japanese rice mixed with vinegar, not that there’s necessarily any raw fish involved. ‘Chirashi’ means ’scattered’ and result is a lot of different ingredients mixed into that rice. Today, there were shiitake mushrooms, renkon (lotus root), nori seaweed, bamboo, kanpyou (dried gourd shavings), chicken and slivers of omlet. If there’s any Japanese food you don’t like, you’re going to be hard at work with your chopsticks picking it out. Not that you should, of course.

Hina Matsuri Emperor

This website has a pretty good detailed recipe for chirashizushi. It’s not something to be attempted by those new to Japanese cooking without clear instructions.

There was pink, white and green mochi for dessert, another classic Hina Matsuri food. Oh, and the dolls get to eat them too. You can see this (and other offerings to the dolls) in the photographs.

I got permission to photograph the Hina doll stand that is a centerpiece in many homes around this time. These are stages that feature a Heian-era court, complete with Emperor and Empress dolls and are usually pretty expensive. I don’t know how many schools have them and I don’t remember seeing them in any of the previous schools I’ve worked in, but it’s difficult to prove a negative. This school has a pretty big one.

I doubt it will still be there tomorrow, since you have to take down the dolls soon after Hina Matsuri, else your daughter will never be married! Shocking.

Gundam Shot Bar Zion

Gundam Shot Bar Zion in Sendai is relatively far from both the station and the main shopping and eating district. We found it by accident after a friend of ours was searching for a restaurant from her travel guide that serves duck noodles and is closed for all major dining periods (Sundays, evenings, etc…).

Zion is what you might find on an off-world colony if the bar owner was into figure-collecting. The second floor bar is dimly-lit and the walls are lined with Gundam of varying sizes and a video of the original series plays on one of the walls.

The bartender welcomed us warmly and, when we admitted that we needed to leave to catch our train back to Tokyo in twenty minutes, told us what he could prepare from the menu in that time. Apparently food is compulsory, probably due to licensing laws. We had “Dopp GZ no Cockpit de Edamame”, which were edamame beans served decorated with figures, including one of Garma Zabi. We didn’t get to keep them; you have to order a special dessert for that.

Gundam Shot Bar Zion

Our point cards (to be upgraded the next time we visit the bar) identified us as ‘civilians’ in the Gundam universe and I’m keeping it even if I’m not sure if I’ll return to Miyagi Prefecture.

The menu has a number of cocktails unique to the Sendai bar. I chose “Jet Stream Attack” which was a fairly ordinary cola mix (I think… the recipes are secret). My partner got “Akahana,” a grapefruit-based drink served in a cocktail glass and named after an insignificant-but-iconic Zeon guy from the original Gundam who had a red nose. The bartender thought this was a pretty cool choice. And when our drinks arrived, he insisted that, instead of ‘kampai!’ we shout ‘Sieg Zion!’

When we left, said bartender saluted us. It was a wonderful, friendly experience that I would recommend to anyone visiting Sendai, even if you don’t know much about Gundam. I have no idea if the Tokyo bar is as good.

 
 

《 ガンダムショットバー ZION 》
仙台市青葉区大町2-4-1 グランドソレイユ2F
Gundam Shot Bar ZION
Sendai-shi Aoba-ku Oomachi 2-4-1 Grand Soleil 2F

Map

 

Gundam Shot Bar Zion Gundam Shot Bar Zion Gundam Shot Bar Zion
Gundam Shot Bar Zion

Fish kanji

About three years ago, I was working as an ALT in a junior high school. I was halfway through my school lunch in the staffroom when the science teacher, who also coached the tennis team, sat down beside me.

“Sensei,” he began, for he was speaking Japanese, “You don’t eat whale in the UK, do you?”

“No we don’t.”

He pointed at an empty compartment of my tray. “How was it?”

To our left, two younger, female teachers nodded their heads in unison and pushed their trays away with uneaten meat on it. Across the table, another teacher did the same. This was unprecedented, as Japanese teachers often try to set a good example by eating all their food, even if there are no children around to see it.

I returned my tray and chopsticks to the metal trolley and checked the lunch menu pinned to the teacher’s notice board. I vaguely remembered expecting some kind of fish that day. However, I saw a handful of stray fliers promoting today’s lunch first. It had the name of the animal in kanji and a guide for pronunciation written over the top. The text, loosely translated, read, “A whale is a large animal, so you can take a big serving!” It was accompanied by a cute anime-style picture of a smiling whale.

Apparently, they were expecting dissent.

I realised my mistake immediately. Even within sushi bars where you can find all kinds of semi-obscure kanji for fish, ‘whale’ is frequently written out phonetically. If presented solely with the kanji, it’s a reasonable bet (for a non-native speaker) that it’s a type of fish as it includes another kanji which means ‘fish’.

The reaction of the teachers in the junior high was markedly different from those teaching in many of my elementary schools. These teachers were clearly enjoying it and sighing about how it took them back to their school days. I actually have a great deal of sympathy for people whose childhood food is being restricted and declared morally wrong, but it’s interesting that a deliberate attempt to instill the same sense of nostalgia in the next generation is being made.

Wasabi Kit-Kat

I went to a friend’s house for Christmas dinner this year. With our powers combined, we had a feast of mashed potatoes, turkey, stuffing, fried okra, Ferererero Rocher and wasabi Kit-Kats.

Japanese kitchens are usually small and ill-equipped to deal with the demands of a Western Christmas dinner. Our own apartment has two gas rings, a fish broiler, a microwave, a toaster oven and a rice cooker, so we usually roast potatoes in the toaster oven. Some people cook vegetables in their rice cooker. These fairly common balancing acts demand fewer roast items and more creativity for big meals. Compromises must be made.

Turkey is a tough item to get, particularly since KFC have convinced the Japanese market that everyone overseas eats their brand of fried chicken for Christmas. Congratulations to my friend on her find. Meanwhile, fried okra is a traditional dish from the American South, which shows the range of experiences with Christmas we had. Compare that to my Ferrero Rocher, which nobody really likes except to pretend they’re at the ambassador’s reception. And then we have the wasabi Kit-Kat.

Whenever I try a new Kit-Kat, I’m always surprised by how it well imitates its chosen flavour and yet how good it is. In the case of the wasabi version, only the first part is true. To me, wasabi is hot, but it also has a distinct flavour that is unmistakably savory. I had one finger of it and desperately tried to appreciate the wasabi with the sweetness of white green chocolate, but I couldn’t. It doesn’t compare favourably with chili chocolate, which adds spiciness to chocolate without adding flavour. I handed the second finger to another friend, who thought it was okay, although couldn’t see herself eating them on a regular basis.

Thanks to my friends and everyone who reads this blog. Hope you had a merry Christmas and are looking forward to a fantastic New Year.

Berry Cafe Blueberry Tart

The Berry Cafe in Ginza is almost not as expensive as it looks. The cafe is furnished in black and the lights are low; one of the first things you see is a row of cakes lit up in a showcase as in an expensive jewellery boutique. They have jewellery off to the side too, costing tens of thousands of yen.

Looking around, clientele are almost exclusively female, plus boyfriends. This is common in Japan, though I hesitate to say ‘normal’ — what kind of man sacrifices cake in exchange for manliness?

It’s okay to order a single slice of tart and my friends do just that. One slice is around 650 to 950 yen, so it’s not like the staff will mind. They communicated with us in Japanese, but I’d be surprised if you had any problems if you didn’t speak it. You have an entire showcase of tarts piled high with berries and a menu that works more like a picture book. It’ll be easy.

The slices come beautifully presented, although you’re paying for that privilege, of course. My personal recommendation is the hot lemon ginger drink and a slice of blueberry tart (pictured). Tasted as good as it looks.

We went to the branch in Ginza, but the flagship cafe is in Aoyama (Tokyo), with other branches in Nagoya (Aichi), Chiba City, Funabashi (Chiba), Hiroshima City, Nishinomiya (Hyogo), Kyoto City and Osaka City.

 

Berry Cafe Official Website

 

Kinako Ohagi Kit-Kat

When you’re blogging about Japan, some days you have to wonder if it’s really worth it. You’d dreamed of festivals and amazing sushi on a conveyor belt, but in the end it turns out you’re just some guy who keeps buying weird Japanese Kit-Kats.

Bring on the newest one! Kinako Ohagi Kit-Kat!

Personally, I love kinako. It goes perfectly with kuromitsu (black honey) and icecream. My enthusiasm was only slightly dampened to hear that kinako is translated as ’soybean flour’. Seriously? That’s all it is? There must be something more to it, because there’s magic in that powder. Ohagi are rice balls that are similar to mochi, but less chewy. Oh, and the ‘filling’ is on the outside.

A helpful diagram on the Kit-Kat packet reveals that there are mochi rice puffs and kinako in the chocolate, with azuki powder and kinako cream between the wafers. Unsurprisingly, I consider this the best of the novelty Kit-Kats.

Royal Milk Tea Kit-Kat

Royal Milk Tea is what Japanese people assure me I drank in England. It’s a distinctive flavour of tea that is probably made by boiling the milk and water together and adding lots of sugar, although no one seems really sure.

In any case, that’s why the packaging has a border featuring The Queen’s Guard, also known as the soldiers who guard Buckingham Palace, plus Scottish Tartan. Inside, the fingers are wrapped in royal blue packaging, which was unexpected.

This Kit-Kat is made up of white chocolate that tastes of sugary milk with the aftertaste of black tea. So it does indeed taste like Royal Milk Tea. Why I keep buying Kit-Kats based on flavours I don’t like is beyond me.

It’s considered to be a gaijin rite of passage to visit a maid cafe, equivalent to climbing Mount Fuji or visiting Kinkakuji in Kyoto. As I had yet to do so, I decided to visit one while on a trip to Akihabara.

The area around Akihabara was crowded that Saturday. Close to Halloween, there were women standing on street corners in outfits that paired maid dresses with witches’ hats. Most clothing was colourful variations on a traditional French maid uniform, but there were a few schoolgirls. When someone wears a uniform supposed to telegraph that they can’t be any older than eighteen in order to entice me to have a cup of coffee with them…? I am squicked. Please, no more schoolgirls.

The women handing out leaflets for Mononopu (もののぷ) were wearing purple kimono/maid uniform hybrids. If that wasn’t perfect enough, they were equipped with plastic pink samurai armour. The leaflet described the place as a Sengoku era maid cafe and, suddenly, my choice wasn’t so difficult.

Mononopu opened in early May of this year (2009, my time-travelling friends!) and can be found down a deserted-looking alleyway behind an AM-PM convenience store on Chuo Doori. I stood staring at the sign outside for a while before a maid ushered me into the entrance hall and towards the lift. She was accompanying another man and it seems quite common for maids to lead you to their workplace if you have trouble with directions.

I was surprised how normal and cafe-like the interior was. Sure, there were flags depicting the family emblems of different generals of the warring states period. Yes, the decor was black, purple and pink. But the open-plan atmosphere suggested it could have been any cheaper cafe.

They asked me if I would mind sitting at the bar as all other seats were taken and I agreed to this. This might have been a mistake, as I believe it carried an extra charge even though it was a choice between sitting there or leaving. They handed me a menu which included machine-translated English (no human translates ‘Saturday’ as ’soil’) and one of the maids spoke a little English.

I decided to order a coffee and chose the one that had ‘oekaki’ written next to it. When it arrived, the maid asked what I would like her to draw. This baffled me. Surely this was some kind of combined psychology and personality test. Would I be judged on my answer? I said she could choose and she asked me what animals I liked. See the photograph for the result. Thank goodness she gave me a suggestion of what was acceptable, or else I would have asked for a clown eating a banana.

Finally, she blessed it with a purple plastic samurai sword, demanding that it be delicious or else and I was pretty much left to my own devices. Overall, it was definitely an experience worth having once, albeit an expensive one. In total, it was 1000 yen to be seated, plus 700 yen for the coffee.

Azuki Pepsi

I love dumb novelty snacks, so I bought the new Pepsi Azuki on the day it was released. It’s yet another flavour found only in Japan that has been hyped up on otaku blogs for quite some time. It sat for weeks in my fridge when I remembered that I hate soda and I’m not too fond of azuki either.

Eventually, something had to give. Got the lid off, sniffed the mixture like a wine connoisseur. It smelled like a mixture of medicine, candy and almost completely unlike beans. The taste itself was almost imperceptibly different from regular Pepsi, although you shouldn’t take my word for that since I seldom drink it unless it’s laced with vodka. I’m guessing here.

Next up was the new Ginger Ale Kit-Kat. The wafers are covered in ginger ale-flavoured white chocolate, with a bit of a fizz to it. Shockingly, it tastes exactly how I imagined it should taste like (unlike the recent Vegetable Kit-Kat). And you can’t really say much fairer than that.

Japanese Kit-Kat

I was sorting through photos of my Mount Fuji climb. One billion photographs (actual number) and my task was to decide which one most effectively depicted the morning sunlight over the torii arch. Then I thought, screw it, why not just blog the latest Japanese Kit-Kat?

The newest flavour is Juujitsu Yasai, which means ‘full of vegetables’ and are made in collaboration with Ito En vegetable juice drinks. The coating is apple and carrot chocolate, while the wafers inside are layered between juujitsu yasai cream.

I was a bit disappointed with it myself, since I was expecting something unspeakably vile to blog about. It tastes mostly of apples, with a softer undertone that may or may not be carrots. Not bad, all things considered.