Spam From Japan

Teramachi is a road with offshoots leading to different temples. A number of paths, however, will take you away from the temples and into the heart of Nagasaki Cemetary.

These paths are called Hefuri-zaka (ヘフリ坂・幣振坂). The main path lies between Daionji Temple (大音寺) and Koutaiji Temple (皓台寺). However, there are other paths which loosely connect to the main one. Another one lies between Enmeiji Temple (延命寺) and Choushouji Temple (長照寺), while another is between Fukusaiji Temple (福済寺) and Shoufukuji Temple (聖福寺.

Hefuri means “to wave a ceremonial Shintou staff“, while zaka refers to a hill (usually steep, in my experience). The name dates from the Kan’ei Era 14 (1637), when a grand stone torii arch was being constructed elsewhere. Stone was taken down the hill and a priest waved a wand to keep the labourers inspired and command them.

It often seems as if this path is being organically-generated as it winds around the graves. There are tiny overgrown paths that may or may not lead somewhere further up the hill.

Clicking on any of these photos will lead you to a bigger photo, hosted by Flickr. If you liked these photos, you might also want to see my photos of the ruins of Hashima Island, also in Nagasaki.

Hashima is an island off Kyuushuu and is also known as Gunkanjima or “Battleship Island”. It was in use from 1887 to 1974 as a coal mining facility. When the coal mining industry collapsed, it was abandoned just as it was and fell into ruins. Now it’s famous for looking a bit like a battleship and its post-apocalyptic landscape.

From April 2009, the general public has had the opportunity to land in certain restricted areas of the island. You are advised to book in advance because these cruises fill up quickly around popular holiday times. If you want to walk on the island, you’ll want the Jouriku Course (上陸コース), which costs 4000 yen for one adult. Bear in mind that all English signs at the harbour (few though they be) make no mention of the names Gunkanjima or Hashima, but refer only to the “Battleship Island Cruise”.

Book through the official tour site here.

I was unable to land on the island, but I was still able to go around it on the regular cruise and I loved it. The photographs show the view from the boat as it started off at Dejima Wharf, went through Nagasaki Harbour and past Soroban Docks before arriving at Hashima. Worth mentioning is that you travel on a fairly small boat out into the open sea, so don’t expect a smooth trip.

Finally, remember your sunscreen. I wish I had.